Your choice of LSP is very important. While it is true that pretty much all waxes and all sealants will be within a small band of each other in terms of looks, protection and ongoing looks, that band is actually quite wide when the subtleties are considered. Again, generally speaking sealants leave a glassy look which waxes provide a warmer depth. Your final choice of LSP will depend upon a couple of other factors, such as the age and style of the car but once you’ve decided upon which one you want to use … how do you get the very best from it?

First, application. It’s all in the preparation – this is a rule. Poor preparation and the wax will not be happy, nor will it improve the look.

Preparation comes with a number of considerations, but the end result must be the same – good looking, clean paintwork that is free of greasiness to give the wax the best chance of bonding. The process might be to machine polish with abrasive polishes and wipe down with an IPA solution, it might be to use an all-in-one polish that might well contain fillers, it might be to use a succession of products to provide a layered effect with a polish, glaze and sealant or it might be a simple pre-wax cleanser.

I’ll come onto that last one in a minute, but I will say at this stage that the lines of distinction between those products is often blurred. Whichever routine you use to prepare … the end result must be the same – good looking, clean paintwork that is free of greasiness to give the wax the best chance of bonding.

Back to the pre-wax cleanse. This is a step that I consider to be of more importance than we might think.

While most AIOs contain a chemical cleanser, they contain a number of other properties such as a light polish and a sealant – they live up to their name as a “one hit” product that covers a number of steps and a couple spring to mind as most suitable for just about any finish: Car-Lack68 NSC and Autoglym Super Resin Polish.

Many wax manufacturers will produce their own pre-wax cleanser, such as Victoria Wax with their Light and Deep Cleanse products, Zymol’s HD Cleanse, Swissvax Cleaner Fluid and Dodo Juice Lime Prime/Lite. It is not just limited to wax, Duragloss produce a “pre-bonding agent” for their sealants and it is this very product that brings me to consider the pre-wax cleanse is more important than we might think providing an interface product for the wax to bond … an epoxy, certainly for the Duragloss product, and an interface product that assists bonding.

While many waxes contain their own solvents and cleansing agents which clean up any greasiness and prepare for the wax to bond well, more boutique waxes … which is pretty much anything above basic waxes, like Collinite, Simoniz or Turtle Wax … more boutique waxes can really benefit from their own dedicated pre-wax cleanser. As discussed, this can often be an AIO polish, like Car-Lack68 NSC or Autoglym Super Resin Polish or in the absence of their own dedicated pre-wax cleanser, one of the good, more generic cleansers such as Dodo Juice Lime Prime/Lite, Serious Performance Paint Cleanser, Sonus Paintwork Cleanser or for polyaminosilicone sealants (that’s “pure” sealants, to normal people), Duragloss 601.

It is my considered experience that this step particularly sets the wax up for a long life; its “durability”, some might say.

Durability? What exactly does that mean? It might well mean the long life of the wax, the protection that it provides and the justification for the manufacturers’ claims of “up to 12 months”, but we want more out of our waxes … namely, good beading, continued water repellance and glossiness.

So, we must consider washing and maintaining. Washing the car is necessary for removing dirt and greasiness that is kicked up when the car is driven, or parked on the roadside.

We know that the wash routine is of paramount importance – shampoo at the correct dilution, two buckets so as not to continually work the removed dirt back over the paint, a sheepskin mitten with its deep pile, sheet rinsing to get the majority of water off and a drying towel to pat the remaining droplets off.

But what about the choice of shampoo? Well, unsurprisingly the formulators at the wax manufacturer will ensure that their shampoo will work with their products. You might well be thinking that a shampoo is a shampoo is a shampoo and how can it matter? Recall, we’re finding absolute perfection here!

Like a dedicated pre-wax cleanser for a particular boutique wax, the manufacturers’ shampoo is the best choice for maintenance. I have witness Dodo Juice Supernatural beautifully revived by their own Supernatural Shampoo, yet kill the beading of Swissvax Best of Show. Likewise, Autoglym Bodywork Shampoo and Conditioner is an excellent choice for their HD Wax but a poor choice for Chemical Guys Pete’s 53, for example. Try to keep manufacturers together but where you are using a mix of products there are a number of good choices as more generic shampoos – my favourite being Finish Kare 1016.

The shampoo will revive beading, sheeting and glossiness. It is with this in mind, coupled with the stronger application of wax prepared with a suitable cleanser/bonding agent that prompts me to say this: enjoy the wax, uncompromised by further products such as QDs or drying aids.

Sheet rinsing and patting off the remaining droplets with a drying towel is quite sufficient – remember, drying aids contain properties that break water down and so will reduce or entirely remove beading. Remember also that any product that you put onto the finish after the wax becomes the new LSP, so to speak. If you absolutely have to use such a product ensure that you also have a good, complimentary re-beading product.

I may appear to have tied myself up here in a tangle around QDs. Used purely as a drying aid with every wash is in my opinion unnecessary and detracts from the enjoyment of the wax itself, but further down the line as the beading starts to wane and the look, once washed, could be more glossy it is the quick detailer, show detailer or spray wax that provides a time-effective alternative to re-waxing.

You guessed it … I’m going to recommend selecting such a product from the same manufacturer as the LSP. This type of product varies from a simple QD that can revive the shine, through products rich in the same properties as the LSP to dedicated spray waxes and sealants.

Victoria Wax Quick Detail Spray, for example, is just that … a shine enhancing spray that boost the performance of the wax by cleaning off any greasiness back to a good wax surface. Duragloss 951 is a product rich in the same properties as their 105 Total Performance Polish (actually, a sealant) and will boost the performance of that sealant in the same way as Sonus Acrylic Glanz is specifically designed to refresh the look and protection of the Klasse/Car-Lack68 products. Show Detailers like Zaino Z8 are rich in gloss enhancing polymers to adjust the look of the wax, making it deeper and pure liquid sealants, like Dodo Juice Red Mist actually provide a definite layer of sealant over the LSP which gives its own look and protection, as does Swissvax Nano Express.

Selecting the right product is down to both a consideration of what will actually work best with your LSP and what it is you’re trying to achieve. In the early stages of the wax cycle, I believe it is best to simply wash and dry. As the cycle progresses it is sometimes necessary to switch to a wash/wax shampoo to revive beading and to use a spray product over the paint to revive glossiness and perhaps enhance protection. Towards the end of the cycle, that becomes absolutely necessary.

Of course, there’s nothing to stop you re-waxing mid-cycle, say after 6-8 weeks to enjoy a futher 6-8 weeks, rather than use additional products to stretch the cycle out to three months. You can do this without having to polish, but cleansing can be as quick a task as spritzing over with a QD and drying in preparation for this fresh layer of wax.

So, in summary …

Prepare the paint – abrasive polish or AIO polish
Prepare for the wax – complimentary pre-wax cleanser
Protect the paint – wax or sealant
Enjoy for 6-8 weeks with regular washing using a complimentary shampoo
Revive – either re-wax or use an additional product to revive beading and gloss
Enjoy for a further 6-8 weeks if re-waxed or 4 weeks if using additional products
Restart the cycle …

Practical examples?

Dodo Juice
Polish the paintwork to perfection
Pre-cleanse with Dodo Juice Lime Prime Lite
Wax with Dodo Juice Supernatural wax … leave 15 minutes, buff off, spritz with chilled distilled water after 30 minutes and re-buff
Enjoy for 6-8 weeks, washing with Dodo Juice Supernatual Shampoo
Revive initial looks with a fresh layer of wax (I actually use Dodo Juice Rainforest Rub at this stage, just because I like it) or switch to a wash/wax shampoo such as Dodo Juice Sour Power
Further revive beading and glossiness with Dodo Juice Red Mist
Enjoy for a further 4 weeks
Restart the cycle …

Let’s shake things up a bit and start with lightly swirled paintwork …

Duragloss
Hide swirling with Duragloss 671
Apply Duragloss 601 Pre-Bonding Agent to prepare for the sealant
Apply Duragloss 105 Total Performance Polish
Enjoy for 2-3 months washing regularly with Duragloss 901 Shampoo
As the beading starts to wane, revive with a spritz of Duragloss 951
Enjoy for a further month, or so
Restart the cycle …

How about using a mix of products? Say, for example, a winter protection?

Car-Lack/Collinite
Prepare with Car-Lack68 NSC … leave 30 minutes and do not buff off
Seal with Car-Lack68 LLS applied over the top of the haze and buff both off together
Wax with Collinite 476S or 915 depending upon light or dark coloured paintwork
Enjoy for 3-4 months through winter, washing regularly with Finish Kare 1016 shampoo
Particularly bright, crisp winter days might well make use of Zaino Z8 spritzed over after drying to deliver a really attractive finish
Move on to your springtime choice of products …

Springtime routine? Let’s use a number of products! We can machine polish later, but the long winter is over and we just want to get a fresh coat of something on the car …

Clearkote/Victoria Wax
Cleanse/Polish with Clearkote Vanilla Hand Moose Glaze
Deepen and fill some swirling with Chemical Guys EZ Creme Glaze
Wax with Victoria Wax Concours/Collectors … 2-3 coats applied in fairly rapid succession
Enjoy for 3-4 weeks washing regularly with Finish Kare 1016
Re-Wax after 3-4 weeks with a fresh coat of Victoria Wax Concours/Collectors preparing with a spritz of Victoria Wax Quick Detail Spray
Repeat a couple of times

Finally, how about a modernised legacy manufacturer?

Autoglym
Prepare with Autoglym Super Resin Polish for lightly swirled finishes or Autoglym HD Cleanser for well kept finishes
Wax with Autoglym HD Wax
Enjoy for 2-3 months washing regularly with Autogylm Bodywork Shampoo and Conditioner
As beading starts to wane, use Autoglym Aqua Wax to assist the drying process and leave a coating of waxiness to assist protection
Enjoy for a few more weeks
Restart the cycle …

Hopefully, there’s a good mix of routines to show off some examples of how keeping manufacturers together can be very beneficial, but also how you can deviate from that “rule” and still get excellent results that will last.

They showed about 20 years worth of grime and a tiny bit of laquer peel but for £120 they are original solid wheels, which with seriously thorough cleansing they could be a really nice presentable set.

Now for the process and guide for those who also wish to achieve fantastic results for old wheels or even refining new ones.

These wheels were done off the vehicle, however, the same process can be applied to a wheel on a vehicle.

Products & Tools

The products are my personal favourites and I would recommend them, however, products are transferable – i.e. Migliore Wheel sealant, could be replaced by a product like Poorboys Wheel Sealant or Chemical Guys Wheel Guard.

Meguiars Wheel Brightener, alongside Valet PRO Bilberry:

1inch Detailing Brush, EZ Detail Brush, Vikan Multi-Brush Rim Cleaner, Autobrite Tyre Cleaner & Meguiars Interior Brush

Autobrite Tar & Glue Remover, Autobrite ‘FAB’ APC & water as Bilt Hamber Auto Clay lube:

Dodo Juice Lime Prime, Migliore Wheel Sealant, Migliore Bella Lustra Tyre Glaze, amongst a German Applicator for the Lime Prime as it has some bite to improve the finish of your alloys further – and an Autobrite Even Coat Applicator for the wheel sealant and an Autobrite tyre dressing sponge.

I will elaborate on these products and tools, and how to use them during this guide.

The Process

Begin first by rinsing the faces of the alloys, preferably with a pressure washer to remove any non-bonded contaminants to prevent damage to the alloy paint.

Once done, apply your wheel brightener of choice. I personally have an acidic and a non-acidic wheel brightener. This is because some wheels with special finishes (i.e. VW & Mercedes Shadow Chrome Alloys) can have a reaction with acidic wheel brightener – you should ALWAYS use non-acidic wheel brightener, such as Valet PRO’s Bilberry on specialist finishes, plus on protected wheels, which need a maintenance clean non-acid wheel brighteners are generally wax safe if used at high dilution ratios (or an APC at 20:1 can be recommended).

These BMW alloys are fine to use acid on due to there normal metallic finish. I used Meguiars Wheel Brightener in this case because it has that extra cutting power that Bilberry doesn’t quite have on 20 years of soiling build up – it is still a very good product with great cleaning properties.

Once applied to all 4 alloys, leave to dwell for a few minutes, then apply an extra bit more of your wheel brightener to the alloy you wish to clean.

I use various brushes in order to cleanse every aspect of the alloy thoroughly.

Vikan Multi-Brush Rim Cleaner on the face:

1inch Detailing Brush for in the wheel nut holes (this can still be applied to wheels on a vehicle):

EZ Detail Brush for in between the spokes and inner rim (this can maintain the thorough wheels off cleansing of the inner rim shown later in this guide):

Now rinse the wheel, which in most cases will remove all of the road grime leaving a perfectly clean alloy.

However, sometimes as demonstrated with inner rims of these, heavier soiling may require extra cleansing in order to rejuvenate them.

Here are the inner rims, a “lovely” looking bunch …

Closer look

Wheel brightener applied as with the faces; inner rim being treated here with the Vikan:

In this case the wheel brightener didn’t quite cut through all the grime leaving some large tar spots.

This is why a dedicated tar remover is so handy, after a few minutes of application, the tar is emulsifying:

Agitate the tar spots with a Vikan brush or similar to help remove the spot, and then rinse the alloys.

Further cleansing may be required! As in this case, Bilt Hamber Auto Clay was required (in warm water here as it was cold today!), alongside some ‘FAB’ APC at 10:1 to be used as lubricant for the clay.

Spray your lubricant on the inner rim and place the clay rubbing in backward and forward motions until there is no resistance, leaving a perfectly smooth surface, ensuring that the surface is kept lubricated at all times!

Some serious grime was lifted here on this 20 year old alloy by the clean even after the previous cleansing steps.

The inner rims were left in much better condition after these processes – unfortunately being 20 years of wear and tear as well as soiling, some pitted into the inner rims.

This is why it is important to thoroughly cleanse and protect your alloys – they are often overlooked and should not be.

Inner Rims After

Tyres are often a forgotten step to clean, they get dirty too! Plus a fully cleansed tyre provides a perfect surface to optimise tyre dressing aesthetics and performance.

Apply an APC – in this case ‘FAB’ APC at 10:1, to the tyre liberally:

Then agitate with a tyre cleaning brush:

and then rinse…

One last cleansing and wheel sealant preparation step can be recommended to give your alloys that extra WOW factor! Plus giving a perfect bonding surface.

Any pre-wax cleanser is like Duragloss 652 Pre-Wax Cleanser or Dodo Juice Lime Prime. I used Lime Prime with a German applicator pad as it has a bit of bite to make use of the products micro-abrasive polishing qualities.

Apply a smartie sized blob to the applicator, this should do at least half a wheel, buff after the residue after completing each wheel:

Being applied to all of the front face of the rim (as well as the inner rim was done, wheels off only)

Now the alloys & tyres are fully cleansed, looking much more composed… now the key is to locking in that finish with some high quality protection – like Migliore Wheel Sealant, as well as adding those finishing touches like tyre dressing.

Migliore Wheel Sealant is best left to cure for 15-20 minutes before buffing off to ensure the best protection – other products may vary but curing is essential.

Whilst the sealant is curing, dressing the tyres is one of those last and important steps at really setting your alloy wheels off – some dressings provide protection and nourish your tyres so they last longer – I used Migliores Wheel Sealant in this case, as I love its new matt look finish and protection capabilities.

Apply the tyre dressing directly to the tyre or apply using a tyre dressing sponge, as demonstrated here, 2 quick sprays should do at least half a tyre with Migliore Bella Lustra Tyre Glaze.

The Results

After all the above cleansing and protection processes, the 20 year old 325i Sport alloys were rejuvenated to the best of the situation.

Thanks for looking, and I hope this guide has been helpful.
Tagged: alloy wheel cleaning, alloy wheel cleansing, how to clean alloy wheels ]]> http://cardetailingpro.wordpress.com/2010/02/24/thorough-alloy-wheel-cleansing-protection/feed/ 0 Ad @ Refined Details Smile http://cardetailingpro.wordpress.com/2009/11/28/words-about-wax-bonding-hazing-curing-and-hardening/ http://cardetailingpro.wordpress.com/2009/11/28/words-about-wax-bonding-hazing-curing-and-hardening/#comments Sat, 28 Nov 2009 11:08:39 +0000 pjgh http://cardetailingpro.wordpress.com/?p=156 ]]> There are a number of questions about waxes that come up again and again, such as:

How do I prepare a surface for waxing?
How long should I leave the wax before buffing off?
How long must I leave it before adding a second layer?
When is it fully cured?

This advice is, for the most part, about wax but much of it holds true for sealants.

Let’s tackle the first matter: Bonding

For a wax to bond to paint, it must be clean. There are a number of ways of cleaning paint in preparation for a wax – a 50/50 solution of IPA and distilled water, a dedicated inspection spray (like Menzerna Top Inspection, or Meguiars Last Touch), a pure hand polish (such as Meguiars #7 or #81), a paint cleanser (like Serious Performance Paint Cleanser or AIOs, like Car-Lack68 NSC, AG SRP) or a dedicated pre-wax cleanser (such as Dodo Juice Lime Prime Lite, Zymöl HD Cleanse or Swissvax Cleaner Fluid).

The paint should be squeaky clean and gleaming.

Now, let’s apply the wax – use bare hands or a foam applicator. The use of bare hands should be restricted to pure waxes, such as those from Dodo Juice, those that state they should be applied by bare hand like Victoria Wax or those which fashion dictates like Zymöl and Swissvax. If you get an adverse reaction when applying wax by bare hand, wash your hands thoroughly using a pH neutral soap with moisturisers and apply a moisturiser after drying. Foam applicators should definitely be used with waxes that have an obviously high solvent content, such as Collinite 476S. Disposal gloves can be worn as further protection from solvents in wax products and this is a practice that is advocated by professionals who are in contact with such chemicals on a regular basis.

Many engineered waxes will contain some cleansing elements and often the high solvent content will assist with the cleaning up of the surface and evaporate quickly to allow the wax to then bond to the paint. More pure waxes also contain solvents and will do this as a natural by-process, but to a lesser extent. Neither excuses poor surface preparation!

Bare hand application is simply a case of transferring an amount of the wax from the pot to the palm of one hand, lifting it with the fingertips of the other and working is against the fingertips of the first hand. Use fingertips to apply in a stroking/grooming action going back over the area to even up. Foam pad application is also as simple as patting a moistened applicator into the wax and then spreading over the car – unless the instructions state otherwise, use long strokes in a fore/aft direction on the top panels and up/down on the side panels. Apply as thin a layer as possible, since “less is more” … read on.

We now step back and leave the product to haze.

This is the point at which the wax will bond to clean paint and often called curing. Curing is a process which will continue long after the wax haze has been removed, so I prefer to call this bonding although the curing process does cover this phase and the next. When considering hazing, we see how “less is more” – haze is simply waste product that is removed when the wax is buffed off and serves no purpose to the overall look or protection, since it is simply not on the car! Furthermore, a whisper thin layer will haze over quickly and the solvents evaporate more rapidly – I believe this allows the wax to bond more effectively, although I have no scientific backing; just the long term effect that the wax has on paint when observed over a period of months.

Once hazed, the wax is ready to remove.

Removal is simply a case of folding up a microfibre towel into quarters and gently wiping the residue off. The curing phase will continue for up to a couple of days until the wax has reached its most hardened. Some waxes may be observed to “sweat” a little – Dodo Juice Supernatural is one very pure wax where this is quite apparent. The oils in the wax continue to evaporate and sometimes, a slight hologram effect can be seen on the paint and if left, a secondary haze may occur. This is quite natural and should be dealt with by a spritz of distilled water, ideally, or a QD and wiped over again with a clean microfibre towel.

The bare minimum length of time before a second layer of wax can be applied is about one hour. This allows the majority of any residual oils to evaporate and the outer skin of what is a micron thin layer of product to start to harden. This process continues over the next day, or so, and so ideally the surface should be left for a good day before applying a second layer of wax.

Some people advocate applying a second layer of wax almost immediately to ensure good coverage. While there is some merit to this method, it is better to ensure that the initial layer is applied with adequate coverage. There is one technique which might have some sound logic and assist with the rapid application of a second layer of wax – spit shining. This is a technique where chilled distilled water is misted over the surface after the initial haze has been buffed off to cause the outer shell of the wax to cure quickly due to the chilling effect. The second layer of wax is applied to the moistened surface and left to cure as normal. Some people advocate not removing the haze from the first layer and mist over that haze, applying the second layer of wax without buffing off the layer of first wax.

Spit shining aside, if a second layer of wax is applied too soon the solvents will simply wipe off the underlying, unhardened layer of wax and there is no actual gain in doing so. The curing process can clearly be understood as taking place as soon as the wax starts to haze and continues long after that haze has been removed. Since the word curing is set in most people’s mind as the process which takes place between application and hazing, we should call this phase hardening.

One final area to consider is the layered approach – applying a wax on top of a glaze, or a sealant. Simply put, the same rules apply – these products must be allowed to bond, haze, cure and harden before the next layer is applied. Some products will do this faster than others and some are more suited to waxes that are high in solvent content – the Car-Lack68 Nano Systematic Care polish is a very rapidly curing product becoming ready for the next layer within half an hour and when followed with their Long Life Sealant is a preparation ready for a wax as strong in solvents as Collinite almost immediately. Products from the same stable are in many cases designed to work together, so Chemical Guys EZ Creme Glaze followed almost immediately by Jetseal 109, left for half an hour and then topped with Pete’s 53 Black Pearl Signature Paste Wax is a routine that will work well.

I hope that this clarifies each stage of the waxing process, what is happening at each stage and summarises that wax should be applied to clean, well prepared surfaces in as thin a layer as possible given good coverage, allowed to haze over and then permitted to harden in its own time.

Have a lot of fun …

I have had the pleasure to be the sole tester of Bella Lustra Tyre Glaze (amongst the rest of the Migliore product line) during its trial stages in the UK before it was brought to the market by Autobrite Direct. After 6 months of testing and being completely wowed by the product, I am so pleased that it is finally available for all the detailing enthusiasts and professionals to use.

About the Product from Migliore

“Migliore Bella Lustra Tyre Glaze is a natural based tyre shine that will not inflict damage to your tyres nor create the dreaded product slinging associated with other tyre products.

Migliore Bella Lustra Tyre Glaze will provide a classy, dark and matte finish to your tyres.

• Natural based tyre shine that will not inflict damage
• No product ‘sling’ on your panels
• Provides a fantastic matt and classy finish

Apply Migliore Bella Lustra Tire Glaze in the shade. Apply the product on a pad or cloth before applying on your tires, this will create a more uniform presentation. Multiple layers will darken tires, giving a deeper black look.”

This sounds very interesting already doesn’t it

The product comes  in quite a thin bottle, reminds me a little bit of a hair gel spray bottle, or Swissvax Pneu, regardless the packaging choice looks very sleek and professional. The sprayer head was small which lead me to believe that I would have to squirt the product continuously in order to get an entire tyre dressed.

2 squirts onto a foam applicator.

A nice amount of product was released and I then began to test it on the tyres. I noticed that the product foamed slightly, which made it sink into the tyre grooves, which can be a pain dress without using lots, as I have experienced with products in the past.

The tyre was completed with only 4 squirts onto the foam tyre dressing pad which is absolutely superb economy! The tyre was looking prestigious with is semi-matt finish.

Verdict: What an absolutely superb product. Since testing this product I haven’t picked up another tyre dressing since! The finish is absolutely stunning and prestigious (many of my customers have even commented on the tyres!), plus the durability is up to 4 weeks I found, which is brilliant – the fact you can layer the product is also an added bonus as you can apply multiple layers like a wax for extra durability. A must buy!

I am arranging a Detailing Pro’s girst group buy for some of the well acclaimed Collinite 915 wax.

About the Product

Collinite 915 Marque D’Elegance Premium Auto Wax
For the BEST in wax endurance, Marque d’Elegance is the product to have.

Car enthusiasts demand a wax that is proven to protect in the most demanding environments, rain or shine, on track or on the street. They have discovered that Collinite Marque d’Elegance gives their valuable automotive investments a blinding, lasting shine because its formulated from the highest-ever concentration of pure Carnauba waxes. And no abrasives means all Collinite waxes are absolutely clear coat safe. It doesn’t get any better!

RRP £25.99

However, if a group buy of at least 5 people is arranged you can have this amazing wax at JUST £21.99 delivered!

There are only 12 tins of this fine car wax available for this group buy so be sure to get your name down ASAP by contacting myself at adam@refined-details.co.uk payment by Paypal is preferred.